Last few months, we have put a great effort in creating a firmware update. The firmware update contains two new functions. The update is only suited for the machines that came with magnetic connectors.
WHAT DID WE UPDATE?
We basically added two complete new functionalities on the devices:
- Manual calibration procedure
- Save and Stop -> Resume function
THE NEW MANUAL CALIBRATION MENU:
A new manual calibration menu helps you through the process of calibration. With this new function, there is no need to connect the Printer to the computer to level the build plate. It takes you through a series of steps, allowing you to tune the build plate in an easier and more intuitive way.
THE STOP AND SAVE MENU:
During print, you sometimes want to swap filament. Or you just don’t want to start a print that will take quite some time to finish. The Stop and Save menu allows you to pause your prints, and let them continue after some seconds, or even after some days. The printer just continues right where it stopped when after you Stop-and-saved it.
Keep in mind that updating the firmware in a wrong way can result in a not properly working device. It is required to execute every step like written in this blog-post. In case something is not clear, please get back to email@example.com.
CAN I UPDATE MY TRIPODMAKER FIRMWARE?
How to check if your machine is definitely suited for the firmware update? Check for the version label on the back of your Tripodmaker. It should clearly show version 2.0. Second, it should have had the magnetic contacts as you received from our factory.
THE NEW FIRMWARE INSTALLATION IS DONE IN 4 MAJOR STEPS STEPS:
STEP 1 – PRINTRUN
1.1 Instal Printrun, you can find your latest version here.
1.2 Turn on your Tripodmaker and connect the printer with your computer through its USB cable. Now open the Printrun application. Select the appropriate COM-port (in my case COM19) and set the baud rate to 115200. In case the COM port doesn’t show up directly, be a bit patient. Unplug your printer, or even sometimes you will need to do a reboot operation.
1.3 Click “Connect” and in the right command line screen, info will appear after successful connection. I maximized the Printrun window in order to give a clear insight in what shows up. We are looking for the values Rxxx.xx, Dyyy.yy, Hzzz.zz (x, y and z stand for numbers) behind the M666 text. I highlighted these numbers on the picture below. Now write down the numbers. These numbers will be different when compared to the picture and are unique for your printer. It is your responsibility not to loose these numbers you see on your screen. Losing these numbers will result in a non-calibrated machine. Now disconnect the software by clicking the “Disconnect” button.
If none of these M666 text is showing up, there is no need to panic. A value is readable on the back of your 3D printer label. This number refers to the Rxxx.xx value (radius value). To know the Hzzz.zz value, just home your printer (on the printer controller > Prepare > Auto Home) and write down the Z-height after homing. It is your responsibility not to loose these numbers you collected. Losing these numbers will result in a non-calibrated machine.
STEP 2 – ARDUINO
2.1 Install Arduino, you can find the latest version here.
2.2 Once installed sent a mail to firstname.lastname@example.org [we had a download before but as the site moved to a new location, this is a temporary work around]. Make sure to unpack the received files in a folder called “TripodmakerMarlin”.
2.3 Now open TripodmakerMarlin.ino. The TripodmakerMarlin firmware will now open with several tabs i.e. MarlinTripodmaker.ino, Configuration.h, Configuration_adv.h, EEPROMwrite.h, etc…
2.4 Make sure the TripodMaker is connected to your computer and powered on. (Note: If Pronterface (or another host program like RepetierHost) is open, make sure to either close it or disconnect it from the Tripodmaker before uploading)
2.5 Click on “Tools” then “Board” then “Arduino Mega 2560 or Mega ADK”. This will select the arduino mega 2560 as your default board, which is the board that is inside your TripodMaker.
2.6 Click on “Tools” then “Serial Port” then select the appropriate COM port (In my case COM19). In case the COM port doesn’t show up directly, be a bit patient. Unplug your printer, or even sometimes you will need to do a reboot operation.
2.7 Click the “Upload” button (highlighted yellow in the following picture) to upload the firmware to your electronics. Make sure you don’t add any characters to the code as these might brake the code.
There you have it; you have just uploaded Marlin to your Tripodmaker electronics! Congratulations, you can now close your Arduino program.
STEP 3 – GETTING THE VALUES BACK IN.
We now have the new firmware uploaded to our device, but we still need to put in the old calibration value’s we recovered during STEP 1. These are unique values and are different for every printer. If you lost these values or you enter wrong ones, your device will probably not be working properly. It is your responsibility not to loose these numbers and not to enter them wrong.
3.1 Re-open Printrun and connect the Printerun software to your printer like I explained in STEP 1.
3.2.1 In case there was no Printrun output and you had to write down the numbers for the LCD screen and the Label, go to 3.2.2.
Now type in the following command in the command line and replace the xxx.xx, yyy.yy and zzz.zz with the numbers you wrote down in the previous step and hit “Send”. Attention: Use a “.” [dot] and NOT a “,” [comma] as separator!
M666 Rxxx.xx Dyyy.yy Hzzz.zz
3.2.2 In case there was no Printrun output and you had to write down the numbers for the LCD screen and the Label, just use this code in the command line and hit “Send”. Attention: Use a “.” [dot] and NOT a “,” [comma] as separator!
M666 Rxxx.xx Hzzz.zz
Now type the M500 command in the same spot to store the values.
STEP 4 – ENJOY THE NEW FEATURES!
THE MANUAL CALIBRATION MENU
This menu kind of speaks for itself. You can go through a routine were the printer head is moving around the build plate. Please make sure the build plate is empty so the hot end can’t bump into recently printed objects.
For a detailed explanation, download our latest manual available in our downloads-section.
THE SAVE AND STOP MENU
During print, you can now select “Save and Stop”. This overwrites a file called “resume.g”. Opening this file results in a continuation of the print you were doing. Opening the “resume.g” file if it didn’t match with the print you were doing will result in a faulty operation (crashing or floating above the semi-printed part). So be sure to only select the “resume.g” file in case you are sure you did a correct “Save and Stop” before!